I’ve always wondered what paradise might look like, and after visiting Bali – I hope I’ve found the answer. Maybe it’s not the paradise, but it is – unbelievable tropical paradise. So, where to begin? The Bali experience is something that can’t be explained, it’s a cultural and spiritual journey that needs to be experienced in order to be understood. This island is called “The Island of The Gods,” and appropriately so. Bali is a place I believe should be on everyone’s wish-list. Here are few places you just can’t miss when in Bali:


Oduvijek sam se pitala kako izgleda raj, a nakon dolaska na Bali – nadam se da sam pronasla svoj odgovor. Mozda nije raj, ali je pravi – tropski raj. Pa, otkuda poceti? Iskustvo koje Bali pruza tesko se moze opisati rijecima – to je mjesto bogate kulture, religijskih ceremonija, duhovnih vrijednosti i nevjerojatnih krajolika. Zato nije ni cudno zasto Bali nazivaju ”Otokom bogova”. Ovaj prekrasni i pustolovni otok trebao bi se svima naci na wish-listi, a evo i nekoliko razloga zasto:

1. Experience an infinity pool in Ubud

Imagine this: waking up in baldachin bed, colorful and varied breakfast in front of the infinity pool, view of endless palms and jungle vibes all around you. If you do, you are in Ubud. Ubud is the first town we visited in Bali. It’s located in the middle of the island and is widely known as a destinations of thousands of Westerners seeking to discover themselves or – to practice yoga. Here you will find inner piece, because it is really calm and zen place. Restaurants are  closing down slowly after sunset, so after 8 p.m. you will have to return to your villa – poor you (:. That’s why you will wake up early at sunrise and enjoy your smoothies, which are delicious by the way. If you’ve ever watched the film ”Eat, Pray, Love”, I’m sure you will recognize this amazing place.


Zamislite budenje medu baldahinima, sareni i raznovrsni dorucak ispred infinity bazena, pogled na beskonacne palme i ”jungle vibe” u vama. Tada ste u Ubudu. Ubud je prvi gradic koji smo posjetili na Baliju. Nalazi se u unutrasnjosti otoka te je poznat kao destinacija tisuce zapadnjaka u potrazi za otkrivanjem samih sebe ili – za vjezbanje joge. Ovdje prevladava totalni zen i mir, restorani se polako zatvaraju nakon zalaska sunca, no zato ze budi vrlo rano kako bi se pocelo s pozdravima Suncu i zdravim smoothiesima koji su btw – preukusni. Ako ste gledali film ”Eat, Pray, Love”, sigurna sam da ce vam ovo mjesto postati poznato!

2. Explore unknown beaches

The main beaches in Bali aren’t too special, in my opinion. If anything, I would try to avoid them. They’re quite dirty and you’ll be disturbed every 10 seconds with people trying to sell you something or ask for money.  As the nearest beach from the heart of the city, Kuta beach is often considered one of the most mainstream beaches in Bali, and I really don’t like it. The ones I’d recommend adding to your list are Bingin beach (shown below), Karma beach, Pasir Putih Beach, Pura Geger Beach. A lot of them are located in Uluwatu, which was one of our favourite places and I only wish I saw more of them. The Dreamland beach is pretty much popular too, but still worth to visit it. The advantage of this beach are big and powerful waves that make it as one of the most demanded surfing points in Bali Island. Waves are so strong and high, so it is quite funny to watch people falling and trying to stand up. Because of my eye contacts, unfortunetally – I couldn’t try it. However, this is a place where you can relax while enjoying the warm tropical atmosphere.


Ako na Bali dolazite samo zbog plaza, razmislite ponovo. Po mome misljenju, najpopularnije plaze nisu nesto sto ce vas ocarati – vjerojatno zbog prevelike posjete turista, smeca koje ostavljaju za sobom ili dosadnih trgovaca. Kuta beach se nalazi najblize centru otoka, no to je jedna od spomenutih plaza koja se moze zaobici. Ali, postoje i mjesta koja su fantasticna: svakako bih preporucila Bingin beach (na slici), Karma beach, Pasir Putih Beach ili Pura Geger Beach.  Mnogo njih se nalazi u Uluwatu-u, jednom od najljepsih mjesta na Baliju. Dreamland beach postaje sve popularnija, no i dalje je vrijedna posjeta. Ovdje su valovi toliko snazni i visoki, a tako nesto nisam imala priliku vidjeti. Zbog toga je ovo hotspot za brojne surfere. Zbog nosenja leca, nazalost nisam iskusila valove, ali sam uzivala u padanju i pokusajima dizanja silnih turista, kao i Josipovim (:. Ovo je zasigurno mjesto gdje se mozete odmoriti i uzivati u toploj tropskoj atmosferi.

3. Say hello to monkeys at Ubud Monkey Forest

Everybody loves monkeys – they are funny and also look cute. The Ubud Monkey Forest is a must-visit when traveling to Bali. It is a sanctuary place and a home to over 600 long-tailed macaques, but also a spiritual and economical place for the Balinese inhabitants. Nowadays it is a well-known tourist attraction, but not an attraction that you can visit without caution. The monkeys are wild animals, so you need to be prepared and mindful. I read about some bad experiences there such as: monkey attack, stealing jewelry, pulling hair, pickpocket, etc. These things haven’t happened to us – we were lucky I guess (especially because these things usually do happen to us). My boyfriend feed them with bananas which you can buy in the park. As soon as he got the bananas, monkeys run out to him and climbed on. I also saw how they may get even aggressive until you give them the bananas. So, it is a “jungle” of towering trees, statues and signs warning against doing things that monkeys might perceive as an “act of aggression”. Screaming and eye contact were the two I should have probably paid closer attention to. Doh. Still – this place is really cool and makes you feel like you are in the wild nature.


Svi volimo majmune – oni su zabavni i ”kjut”. Ubud Monkey Forest je jedno od mjesta koje jednostavno morate posjetiti na Baliju. Dom je za vise od 600 majmuna, ali istodobno i spiritualno mjesto za Balenizane. Danas je Monkey Forest poznat kao turisticka atrakcija, no morate biti oprezni jer su majmuni ipak divlje zivotinje. Prije posjeta Baliju, citala sam o losim iskustvima, kao sto su: napad majmuna, krada nakita i drugih stvari, cupanje kose itd. Zacudo Bozje, ove stvari se nama nisu dogodile (a obicno se nama upravo takve stvari i dogadaju). Moj ih je decko hranio bananama koje mozete kupiti na nekoliko mjesta u parku. Potrcali su prema njemu i popeli se na rame i prije nego li ju je otvorio! Vidjela sam slucajeve kada mogu postati i pomalo agresivni, ukoliko im hranu ne date na vrijeme. Sve u svemu, to je ”dzungla” visokih drveca, hramova i znakova upozorenja za odredene stvari koje majmuni prepoznaju kao ”agresivni cin”. Vristanje i dugi eye contact su dva kojima sam ocito trebala posvetiti vise paznje.

4. Find paradise on the Gili Islands

In recent years, Bali has become an increasingly popular tourist destination, so the “escape” to the Gilis and exploring beautiful pure nature is a perfect get away from the craziness of Bali. While we stayed on Gili Trawangan for only two days, some tourists stay here all summer. Lucky them! Gili Trawangan (or Gili T) is the largest of three Gili islands,  just a few hours from Bali by ferry. There is no traffic here at all; you can explore the island by horse carriages or even better – while riding a bike, which is not a problem cause the island is only 6 km long. Actually, it was the best part of Gili T: a relaxed ride through the island with incredible view of Indian ocean, without traffic jams, without many tourists, without distractions. There are sandy beaches all around with lots of lounge bars.


Zadnjih godina Bali je postao sve posjecenija turisticka destinacija, pa je ”bijeg” na Gili otoke savrsena opcija za predah i uzivanje u cistoj prirodi. Dok smo mi na Gili Trawanganu boravili svega dva dana, neki turisti ovdje ostaju cijelo ljeto. Blago njima. Gili Trawangan (ili Gili T) je najveci od tri Gili otoka, udaljen dva sata brodom od istocne obale Balija. Ovdje prometa nema; otok mozete obici voznjom na konju ili jos bolje  – biciklom, sto nije problem jer je otok dug svega 6 kilometara. To je zapravo bio i najbolji dio Gili T-ja: slobodna voznja otokom, bez prometne guzve, bez turista i bez distrakcija. Kad bi se umorili, sjeli bi u jedan od lounge barova na pjescanoj plazi i jednostavno uzivali u pogledu na Indijski ocean.

During the day, the east part of the island which is facing Lombok island is more popular, but be sure to catch the sunset on the west side of the island where you can sip a Bintang (the local beer) or cocatil while watching the swirling oranges and purples take over the sky. And don’t leave Gilis without getting a picture on the famous swing that sits in shallow ocean waters. If you arrive around sunset, be prepared to wait in line with others who want the same shot. In the morning though, we had it all to ourselves. One of the most beautiful and unique things that I+ve experienced here is certainly the horse riding by the beach. Sunset, wavy ocean, sandy beach and chill tropical house music in the background. Plus, I had Josip who was trying to capture the best moments. But he had to run (:! I couldn’t stop laughing every time I look at him stuck in the sand. But he had fun, have to admit! He’s the best! This island also has more of a party scene, where as Gili Meno & Air are more for people who want something a bit more quiet and secluded.


Preko dana, zanimljivija je  istocna strana otoka okrenuta prema Lomboku, ali kad je zalazak sunca u pitanju – probajte uhvatiti zapadnu stranu gdje se za zalaska sunca odvija prekrasna scena – pastelne boje po citavom horizontu. Takoder, ne napustajte otok bez da ste okinuli bar jednu fotku na popularnoj ljuljacki u moru. Ako to namjeravate uciniti pred zalazak, pripremite se na redove instagramusa koje takoder zele istu fotku. Mi nismo htjeli potratiti zadnje minute zalaska na cekanje, pa smo isto dozivjeli ujutro kada nije bilo ni t od turista te smo ju imali samo za sebe. Jedna od najposebnijih stvari koje sam ondje dozivjela je svakako setnja po plazi  na konju. Zalazak, pjescana plaza, predivni konji i chill tropical house u pozadini. Plus, imam Josipa koji lagano trcakara za mnom hvatajuci svaki trenutak; bilo je urnebesno, nisam se mogla suzdrazi od smijeha svaki put kad bi zapeo u pijesku. Ali, i on se uzivio – to se mora priznati. He’s the best! Ovaj otok takoder nudi bogatu ponudu za nocne provode, sto je jos jedan plus Gili T-a, dok su druga dva otoka – Gili Meno i Gili Air – mnogo mirnije oaze.

5. Bali Swing – do you dare?

It’s a swing with a breathtaking view and lot of adrenaline rush. Swinging over the valley is obviously a thrilling experience. If you follow me on Instagram, you’ll know how passionate I am about the palms. So, this was my highlight of the travel. I’m sooo afraid of heights, so I was kinda proud of myself. Bali Swing have 5 single swings (5m, 10m, 15m, 20m and 78m), tandem swing, two cute nests and amazing stone over the edge above the valley with an amazing view on the canyon and waterfall. It should be on your bucket list because – when do you get to go on a swing in a jungle?? It’s actually an exhilarating ride. You feel like you’re flying. And scared as sh*t! Have to mention this: there’s a lot of people and you will probably have to wait in a long line. The other thing is that it will cost you around 35$.


Ovo nije samo ljuljacka – to je ljuljacka s neponovljivim pogledom i viskom adrenalina. Ljuljanje iznad litice je bilo fantasticno iskustvo. Ako me slijedite na Instagramu, znat cete koliki sam fan palmi. Tako da je Bali Swing definitivno bio definitivno vrhunac ovog putovanja. Uuuzasno se bojim visine, tako da mogu reci da sam vrlo ponosna na sebe (: Na raspolaganju imate 5 ljuljacki (5m,10m,20m i 78m za najhrabije), dva ”gnijezda” i  stijenu na rubu litice s pogledom na kanjon i slapove. Ovo mjesto morate posjetiti kada ste na Baliju iz jednostavnog razloga – kada cete imati priliku ljuljati se u dzungli i vristati iz sveg glasa, a da vas nitko nece cudno gledati?? Imate osjecaj kao da letite. A istovremeno umirete od straha. Moram napomenuti da postoje dugi redovi za ljuljacke, te da ce vas ovaj adrenalin kostati 35 dolara.

6. Catching the sunset on Pura Lempuyang

After a few days of beaches, palm trees and swimming in pool – it was time to challenge ourselves. Pura Lempuyang Luhur, also known as Lempuyang Temple is one of Bali’s oldest temples. It lies at 1175 m above sea level and takes about 2 hours from Ubud by car. It is a rewarding and magical way to finish the day. Plus, sunsets in Bali can’t be better than this. It’s not that easy reach the top by walking the crazy staircase with over 1700 steps. When we finally reached the summit, the view was just gorgeous. We were literally on top of the clouds and the sun was going down behind the mountains. It was such a beautiful moment. Every now and then I twisted around to see a beautiful deep orange glow behind Mount Agung (active volcano nearby). Heavens gate is the very first temple there, and leaves you breathless. When you reach the summit of Mount Batur there’s a strange adrenaline that kicks in. You see that view and you know it was all worth it. You feel proud. You don’t want to sit down. You don’t want to go to sleep. You want to hug someone at the top. You are so lucky.


Nakon nekoliko dana plaza, palmi i bazena – bilo je vrijeme za adrenalin. Pura Lempuyang Luhur, takoder poznat kao Lempuyang hram jedanje od najstarijih hramova na Baliju. Nalazi se na 1175m nadmorske visine i udaljen je 2h autom od Ubuda. Odlazak ondje je magican nacin da zavrsite dan. Plus, niti jedan zalazak sunca na Baliju nije bolji od ovoga! Samo, da bi dosli do vrha, morate preci 1700 stuba – sto i nije neka sreca. No kada smo napokon dosegli vrh, pogled je bio nevjerojatan. Doslovno smo se nalazili iznad oblaka, a sunce je zalazilo iza planina. Kakav savrsen trenutak. Svako malo bih se okretali oko sebe da upijemo ono sto se nalazi ispred nas – ”vidi tamo, vidi vamo, a tek tamo..”- tako je izgledao nas razgovor, otprilike (: Prvi od hramova na koji ondje naidete je Heavens Gate, koji uokviruje nebo iznad Mount Agunga (aktivni vulkan na sjeveru Balija). Kada se popnete na vrh, obuzme vas takav adrenalin (speechless). Pogledate sto se nalazi ispred vas: planine, oblaci, vulkani i znate da je vrijedilo svih onih 1700 stepenica. Osjecate se ponosno. Osjecate da zivite punim plucima. Zelite nekog zagrliti i podijeliti taj trenutak. Zaista ste sretni.

7. Have a dinner at Jimbaran beach

Jimbaran Beach is one of the most amazing places for watching the sunset. Not only do you get a view of the sun melting into the sea, but you get to enjoy it with a fresh coconut and a plate full’a lobster – for a small price! The bay is lined with seafood restaurants that sprawl across the beach. Choose your favourite – they are all pretty much the same, so go for the busiest and friendliest and settle in for the evening. Sometimes (because of high tides), waves can slide under your table and make you feel like you are having dinner in the sea… That was just great! Oh and yes, there is a lovely group of singers that comes to every table. While I was at the toilet, they came to our table – and when I came back, I saw my boyfriend sitting alone by the table, probably blushing, because of that ”whird” romantic atmosphere made by group who played music and sang just for him (:.


Plaza Jimbaran je jedna od najljepsih mjesta za uzivanje u zalasku sunca, a da bi uzivali jos vise – tu su svjezi mladi kokosi i morska jela poput jastoga – a sve za vrlo malu cijenu! Plaza je jako dugacka, a cijelom duzinom redaju se brojni restorani. Odaberite svoj najdrazi, iako su vise-manje svi isti, opustite se i uzivajte u veceri. Ponekad (zbog velikih plima), valovi se odjednom mogu naci pod vasim nogama, pa imate dojam kao da vecerate u moru… Wow! I da, ondje svira i pjeva slatka grupa glazbenika koja se posveti svakom stolu. U ono vrijeme kad su dosli za nas, bila sam na toaletu. Kad sam se vratila, imala sam sto vidjeti – svog ubediranog decka kako posramljeno sjedi sam, dok mu pjeva i svira romatnicna petorka (:

8. Visit the magical Tegalalang Rice Terraces

From the top of the road, you get stunning panoramic views of the terraces – which is an irrigation system called ”Subak” dating back to the 8th century. The drive up from central Ubud took us about 20 minutes by car. Be sure to not only settle for the view, venture deep into the jungle to take in and appreciate this ancient form of engineering. Despite all the mayhem, I guarantee you’ll be able to find a spot you can have all to yourself. Sit down, relax and enjoy the beautiful surroundings. After long walk in humid environment, all you need is that ice tea, which is probably the 362nd ice tea of the trip, but trust me, nothing tastes better after a strenuous day in the heat. Our driver sent us to one of the nearby places, where we avoided overwhelmed restaurants with not so good food at the entrance. There we have tried all kinds of teas, coffee, and also met all kinds of spiders that stood between the shrubs. You can’t have everything, can you? (: All in all, Tegalalang is a stunning, easily accessible and unique location that we will remember for a long time! P.S. Make sure to take water and sunscreen!


Vec s prilazne ceste naici cete na brutalni panoramski pogled na rizina polja – koja su zapravo sustav navodnjavanja, zvan ”Subak”, a datira iz 8.stoljeca. Voznja od centra Ubuda autom traje otprilike 20 minuta. Iako je pogled predivan, vrijedi i zaviriti duboko u dzunglu i upoznati se s drvenim oblikom navodnjavanja polja. Iako je ova lokacija puna turista, sigurna sam da cete moci pronaci mirno mjesto, samo za sebe. Sjednite, opustite se i uzivajte u predivnom okruzenju. Nakon dugog i sparnog hodanja, sve sto vam treba je taj ledeni caj koji ste popili vec 362 puta, ali svaki puta je sve bolji i bolji (po meni, cvak i bolji od kokosove vodice). Nas vozac uputio nas je na jedno obliznje mjesto, cime smo izbjegli prenapucene restorane s losom hranom na samom ulazu. Ondje smo isprobali sve moguce vrste cajeva, kava, ali i upoznali sve vrste pauka koji su visili s grmlja. Ne mozes imati sve, zar ne? (: Sve u svemu, Tegalalang je zapanjujuca, lako dostupna i jedinstvena lokacija koju cemo jos dugo pamtiti. P.S. Nikud bez vode i kreme za suncanje.

9. Choose your favorite waterfall 

This paradise island isn’t only about beautiful beaches and sunset cocktails. Bali is also home to a handful of hidden natural treasures, including stunning waterfalls to add to your Bali bucket list. It owns so many waterfalls that you probably aren’t able to see them all. We chose Tibumana waterfall which is one of the most minimal and yet stunning waterfalls I have ever seen. Despite it being one of the closest waterfalls to Ubud, Tibumana is still relatively untouched by mass tourism and gets far fewer visitors than the likes of Gitgit and Tegenungan waterfall. I wish we had enough time for visiting other waterfalls like: Munduk or Banyumala waterfall. Few things to know about Bali waterfalls: in dry season there is obviously less water, but most of them will still have plenty of water to work very well. To get to most waterfalls in Bali will require a 15-20 minutes of light hiking, but it is 100% worth it.


Ovaj rajski otok nije rezerviran samo za plaze i ispijanje koktela uz zalaske (iako i to obozavamo). Bali je i mjesto bogato skrivenim prirodnim biserima, poput slapova koje definitivno morate ubrojati u vas posjet Baliju. Toliko je velik broj vodopada da ih je nemoguce obici sve. Mi smo odabrali Tibumana slap, koji je jedan od najminimalisticnijih, a ujedno i najljepsih slapova koje sam vidjela. Iako je udaljen samo 10 minuta od Ubuda, Tibumana je jos uvijek netaknut i broji mnogo manje posjetitelja nego li GitgGit ili Tegenungan Waterfall. Nazalost, postoji jos mnogo slapova koje nismo posjetili, kao – Munduk ili Banyumala. Korisno je znati da je tijekom susne sezone razina vode manja, no i dalje dovoljna za kupanac. Za vecinu slapova na Baliju, biti ce vam potrebno oko 20-ak minuta laganog pjesacenja, ali se 100% isplati.

10. Nusa Penida Island trip

”Save the best for last” – and here it is – Nusa Penida is just magnificent! This island is all about exploring its great nature and rough terrain. There is a lot of speedboats in Bali which will take you here. That 45-minute trip felt like 5 hours and we were so happy to kiss the ground when we finally reached the shores of Nusa Penida. The waves were indeed high and the boat rocked from side to side. So. When it comes down to most instagrammable spots in Nusa Penida, the dinosaur shaped Kelingking Beach or Secret Point Beach is for sure number one. When I reached this spot I had no clue what was coming and then I suddenly looked down on that beautifully green rock formation sticking out of the deep blue ocean, the white sand beach 100 meters down below and the massive limestone cliffs on my right! Damn I totally understand why this is one of the best places to see in Nusa Penida. Take a look at this breathtaking photo…


Najbolje sam sacuvala za kraj: otok Nusa Penida koji je toliko ocaravajuci! Ovaj otok je stvoren za istrazivanje prirode i strmog terena koji daje fantasticne poglede. Od Balija do Nuse Penide voze brzi brodovi s kojima voznja traje 30-45 minuta. Nasa je trajala 45 minuta, a imali smo osjecaj kao da se vozimo 5h. Nakon sto smo napokon stigli na obalu, bili smo presretni sto smo zivi i zdravi (nesto slicno nam se dogodilo i s Gili otocima), jer su valovi bili ludi i nezaboravni. Nego – kada govorimo o najinstagrammable mjestu na Nusi, to je Kelingking Beach koji ste sigurno vec negdje vidjeli. S jedne strane sam znala sto me ceka, dok s druge nisam ni ocekivala da cu dozivjeti nesto ovako: strme stijene prekrivene zelenilom, duboki tirkizni ocean i bijeli pjesak 100 metara ispod nas. Uff: u tom sam trenu znala zasto je ovo jedno od najimpresivnijih mjesta na Nusi Penidi, ali i na Baliju uopce. Samo pogledajte sliku ispod…

Well, I experienced the worst thing that can happen to you on a place like this: our cellphone batteries went dead, so I couldn’t take more pictures. In that moment I was crazy, but now I’m so thankful for that because we forgot what it means to live in THE moment. And this moment was perfect. I highly recommend this place. So, what else  could you do here? There were so many places we wanted to see, but the island is surprisingly large, and the roads make traveling long distances quite exhausting. There is a lot of other beautiful places and things to explore: Atuh Beach, Broken Beach, Crystal Bay, natural infinity pool in Angel’s Billabong, snorkeling with mantas, visit Seganing waterfalls or temples.


Ondje sam iskusila najgoru mogucu stvar koja ti se moze dogoditi na ovakvom mjestu: ostati bez baterije. I to se upravo i dogodilo. Ne samo meni nego i Josipu, tako da nisam imala prilike vise slikati. U tom trenutku bila sam luda, ali sada sam zahvalna na tome jer smatram da smo svi zaboravili zivjeti u trenutku. A ovaj trenutak je bio jednostavno savrsen. Veeeelike preporuke za ovo mjesto. Sto jos mozete vidjeti? Mnogo je prekrasnih mjesta i stvari koje ondje mozete iskusiti: ronjenje s mantama, plaze poput Atuh, Broken ili Crystal Beach, prirodni infinity pool Angel’s Billagong, posjetiti hramove ili pak Seganing slapove.

 

All in all, Bali was a humble and peaceful experience which I was so glad to be a part of. It’s not just about the jungle vibe, palms, beaches, food which is excellent with big e! It’s also about people. Balinese people, who welcome tourists with open arms and hearts, are so warm, friendly and willing to help. Did you know that they strongly believe in karma? If you do good things, good things will happen – so I learned something from them.

 

So how to describe Bali in a few words? Imagine lush vegetation, endless rice terraces, white and black beaches, world-class surfing, ancient culture, countless temples and volcanic mountains. And all of this can be found on one tropical island: Bali. Tell me about any other island that has as much to offer as this paradise island! Tough call, wright? People come to Bali, mainly for one reason: it is an excellent value for a good price, and the variety that Bali has to offer is unlike any other tourist destination in the world.

 

But Bali isn’t perfect. The island has been overrun by mass tourism over the past years. The good news is that Bali is a huge island, it takes over 3 hours to drive from the southern tip to the North. You can still find less touristy spots in Bali and enjoy far away from the crowds.

 

I hope you enjoyed my virtual trip to Bali island. If you have no time to read the whole article, give me at least three minutes of your attention and check out my video, which will be online these days. It’s all filmed in Bali, made with love and it will give you a good impression of Bali within seconds. You can thank me later… (:

 

XoXo,

Matea

 

Special thanks to my best boyfriend in the world – Josip, who took this photos and did it with so much love, without grumbling.  <3 

 

 

 

 

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